HOW TO : Paint laminate & particle board Furniture

By Mandie On August 16, 2011 · 37 Comments

Ikea Particleboard Dresser

This has to be the most commonly asked question we get.. How do I paint laminate furniture? aka: Target, Ikea, and sadly even most Pottery Barn furniture is pressed particle board or laminate over particleboard. Another question is how to paint the shiny plastic-like tops on some of the vintage french provencial dressers. The good news: you CAN paint laminte, particleboard, and shiny formica-looking furniture & it will look as good as painted wood furniture.

Let’s pretend you bought this dresser from Ikea, and now you want it some other color..

The first step is to remove the hardware, and go to The Home Depot for these things:

{I’m totally visual, so I’ll add a picture of each thing you’ll need}

1. Mouse Sander & 80 grit sandpaper pads

Ryobi Sander

2. Kilz Oil Based Spray Primer (3 cans for a dresser this size) Ok, these are about $5 per can (cheaper at Walmart & Lowe’s), but absolutely worth the $ to save time, and this primer is the best on the market. (Trust me, we’ve painted over 800 pieces of furniture in the past 2 years, and we have tried EVERY brand against this stuff- nothing compares) It will save you HOURS of time too- which is well worth $5 per can for your sanity.

Kilz Spray Primer

3. A good brush or a cheap brush & a foam roller set (I do everything with this brush- The Purdy Cub)

Purdy Cub Paintbrush

These white foam roller sets are great for large areas, and you can buy a cheaper brush for the edges & trim work.

Foam Rollers

4. Your paint color of choice (I love Behr, it’s rated #1 by Consumer Reports- it even beat Sherwin Williams) I buy Interior Latex in Eggshell when I am working on non-wood furniture.

Behr Paint & Primer in One

5. 120 grit sander block or sheets of sandpaper if you want to distress the edges.

These blocks are great for lightly distressing the edges & details of non-wood furniture.

6. Minwax Paste Finishing Wax {Apply 2 coats of Wax according to the directions on the can after you’ve painted your piece}

Minwax Paste Finishing Wax

First, use your sander to sand the piece of furniture lightly- just enough to remove the shine from the particleboard. You do not want to over sand- or the layers of particleboard will start shredding. Once you’ve sanded your furniture, you should remove all of the dust from sanding. You can use tackcloth (but it feels creepy to me, so I use Clorox wipes). Once you’ve cleaned your furniture and it has dried, it’s time to spray prime. I keep a few flattened cardboard moving boxes on hand for this, but plastic sheeting is good too. I put my cardboard moving boxes on the grass and move the furniture on top of it to spray prime. Shake the can well, and use several thin layers of spray primer- allowing it to dry in between coats. This primer acts as the bonding agent with the paint- and causes it to stick to the particleboard and gives a durable finish that my kids can’t destroy. (and they can destroy anything) After you’ve primed, use 220 grit sandpaper to lightly sand any gritty spots or drips until they are smooth. Then, use 2 coats of Behr paint over the primer. If you want to distress your furniture, use a sanding block on the edges and details. Then, finish with 2 coats of Minwax paste finishing wax. It’s easy, wax on {wait 10 minutes} wax off. And, repeat. ;0)

Don’t be scared! You CAN do this!

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37 comments on “HOW TO : Paint laminate & particle board Furniture”

Marye Lawrence on August 16, 2011 at 3:48 pm said:

I would like to add that for those who can not use a spray primmer (breathing problems) that Zinsser bullseye 123, water clean up, is low oder and works darn good!! I like you have tried them all and never been happy till I found this. I make sure to use two to three coats, this is a must..

P.S. I like your web sight and the work that you do, keep up the good work!!!

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Jeanne on August 16, 2011 at 5:47 pm said:

Hey Mandie. I was just wondering if the Minwax finishing paste is your preferred topcoat just for laminate or if you have switched to that for all of your work. I have your ebooks and I know you recommend polycrylic or polyurethene in those.

Thanks for your help.

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- Michele Webb on March 9, 2012 at 8:14 am said:
  
  I was wondering the same thing, Jeanne! I am in the process of painting my first project today and haven’t bought the poly yet…Wondering which is recommended for real wood!!
  
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Amanda on August 16, 2011 at 5:47 pm said:

Just found your site through a fellow blog. Thanks for giving such a detailed explanation of how to do this, I have never done it before but want to try so bad! Thanks for the encouragement!!

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Mitzi on August 17, 2011 at 5:44 pm said:

This is fabulous!
So wish I would have had this when I painted my dresser. It turned out ok, but I would have been tons more confident!

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Stephanie on August 18, 2011 at 3:27 pm said:

Please explain… I have bought this primer twice and used it on pieces thought to be real wood until I started sanding and it quickly became “furry”. I find that it spatters real bad like a popcorn ceiling. Am I doing something wrong? Also, How do you feel about the can of kilz and spraying it with a sprayer? Do you know if it works the same?

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- Mandie on August 18, 2011 at 4:17 pm said:
  
  You have to shake the cans really well before you spray with them, and if you get too close it will splatter. You have to stay back about 12-18 inches and do several thin coats with dry time in between coats. I always use 220 sandpaper after using the kilz because it can leave a gritty texture. I don’t use the kilz through a sprayer because I don’t spray my furniture- I paint everything by hand. My husband has sprayed metallics for me before, but we still use the Kilz cans because they are oil based. I suppose if you used oil based Kilz through a sprayer, you might have similar results, but I haven’t tried that because oil based paints and primers have a nasty clean up process. The water based Kilz does not work nearly as well as the oil based, so I stick with the cans.
  
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Terry on August 21, 2011 at 4:55 am said:

I feel so much happier now I udnretsnad all this. Thanks!

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Lynn Smith on August 30, 2011 at 5:31 pm said:

So does this mean you can do kitchen cabinets made of particle board this way? Can you touch up where spots of particle board have gotten wet and chipped off?

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Ashley on November 10, 2011 at 1:00 pm said:

What should you do if you painted a piece of particle board furniture without doing the primer first? Should I just add a coat of plycrylic to keep it from peeling so easily?

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- Heather Miller on February 27, 2013 at 2:55 pm said:
  
  I would LOVE to know the answer to your question. JUST finished today painting an IKEA dresser. I used one coat of spray primer and then painted. Its already pealing Off!!! ugh. I wish I would have read this first.
  
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Tracy on January 15, 2012 at 1:05 pm said:

Hello – trying this project today! Really excited and hope it works. Question: in Part 5 you say to use 120 grit sandpaper, but the picture shows 220 grit. Also in the instructions below you say 220. I assume it’s 220 but just want to make sure!

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E on February 23, 2012 at 2:34 pm said:

I am very interested in doing this to my kitchen cabinets. I am not familiar with these products because i have never been a DYI person. But I am totally in to doing this now. So I want to know is there a paint on alternative to the KILZ spray? Because my cabinets are already attached and what not. And I dont want to remove them. So I would be working from inside the home not outside.

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Vicki Jarrett on April 10, 2012 at 9:17 pm said:

I am going to repaint a child’s table and chairs. It is particle board with a laminate top. Just wondering if after applying the primer, can you use acrylic paint? If so, what would you recommend to use to protect the surface?

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Amy on April 15, 2012 at 5:16 pm said:

I researched how to do this for so long and this was the best tutorial I found! So easy. I refinished my nightstand and I love it. I did skip the finishing wax because I felt like I was doing it wrong. It was so chunky! And the smell was really strong.

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Mary Lynn Treppa on May 12, 2012 at 7:58 am said:

This has been a great help! One question: How long should you let the paint cure before waxing or can you do it as soon as it’s thoroughly dry? Thank you.

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- Mandie on May 14, 2012 at 8:15 am said:
  
  I wait at least 24 hours just to make sure the paint is cured. Thanks!
  
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Kimberly on July 19, 2012 at 9:10 pm said:

Will this work on a particleboard surface that has nicks and scratches right through the veneer surface? I just bought a used night stand with the intention of refinishing it, and your instructions give me the confidence that it can be done! If the top of the table is too badly damaged, I may cover it with a piece of glass (if I can find one the right size) or maybe mod-podge a decorative paper that matches my daughter’s room decor.

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Jenna on July 28, 2012 at 5:53 pm said:

Does the wax leave a shiny finish? I am refinishing a dresser and I want it to have a distressed vintage look and am not wanting much shine.

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Kim Perez on August 3, 2012 at 10:29 am said:

Hope this project is as fun to do as it was to read! Can we hang out?

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Debbie Wilson on September 7, 2012 at 6:57 am said:

I have a 1970 something Sears canopy bedroom set that is the antique color with gold trim. I would like to update but make the rom look vintage shabby chic, but not sure how to paint it. Could you give me suggestions?

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Terry on September 10, 2012 at 9:32 pm said:

Once you lightly sand, should the laminate color still be there- just not shiny anymore? I bought 120 sand paper today to test on a smaller Ikea piece first, and dont know if I am doing it right. I want to paint the dark wood color from Ikea. I was also wondering if you would recommend the Paint and Primer in one (Behr Ultra)? Thanks!

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Lisa on October 11, 2012 at 8:34 am said:

One of the drawers of the dresser I am refinishing has already been sanded where the texture is rough! What can I do to smooth it out where the finish is nice and smooth?

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Laurie on November 17, 2012 at 12:48 pm said:

I just finished my project and after using the finishing wax, anytime you touch it it looks horrible, dirty smudgy. Is there anything else I can put on it? Thanks.

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- Mandie on November 29, 2012 at 3:58 pm said:
  
  You need to buff it with a white rag if it’s still hazy. That may mean you applied too much, but make sure you buff it well and ti should be lightly shiny.
  
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Alia on December 3, 2012 at 1:41 pm said:

Thanks for the great tutorial. Question – I have a piece of laminate furniture from ikea that I painted a few years ago… sanded and primed before paint but it definitely hasn’t held up to wear and tear (lots of scratches and places where the paint has peeled off). I doubt I correctly prepped the piece for painting when I originally did it, so I’m not surprised. I’d like to just redo the whole thing, but I’m wondering if to do that would i have to strip off the paint that’s already on there? Or could I just prime again over the current paint (doing it correctly this time) and start from there. Any thoughts?

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- Mandie on December 17, 2012 at 10:52 am said:
  
  You would need to sand the piece before you repaint it to even out the surface. I would use a 120 grit paper and sand it until it’s smooth and has some grit to it so the new primer and paint has something to grab onto. Good luck with your project!
  
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  - Alia on December 17, 2012 at 12:28 pm said:
    
    Appreciate your tips!
    
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Jim on December 20, 2012 at 10:53 pm said:

Mandie,
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
I have a dining table refinishing project that has become a nightmare. Wonder what you would do???
It’s a cherry wood dining table that matches a hutch that’s in perfect condition. I decided to strip the table top and sand it down to erase some deep scratches, but the sanding revealed that the table is really made of particle board underneath a cherry wood veneer. I had no idea! Now if I stain it to match the hutch and chairs, I’ll be staining 10% particle board and 90% cheery veneer. I’ll be embarrassed for anyone to see it! What might you do, Mandie?

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Sonia H on January 31, 2013 at 3:48 pm said:

Thank you for the tutorial! I had great success with all of the steps, except the last. I wish I would have skipped the wax step. No matter how hard or long, or with what type of cloth, I can’t get the hazy finish off that the wax left behind. Its too bad, because I really like the piece just fine with the painted finish. Just a note of caution for anyone else who is considering doing this… do a test of the wax finish… you might decide to skip it after you see the results. Thank you again for the tutorial… I had no idea that laminate could be painted, and this made it easy!

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- Penny Lynn on March 22, 2013 at 8:46 am said:
  
  You may have used too much wax I love this wax!!!!! I’m sorry that it didn’t work out for you, because it really is super awesome and durable.
  
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Sue on February 2, 2013 at 12:25 pm said:

I have a dining room table that is in dear need of help (the hutch and buffet are fine) — the top is a veneer over particleboard. The top has blistered and cracked and scratched. It’s an eyesore. I was going to try to find a new top at a local unfinished wood outlet, but it would be quite pricey. I’d love to try to refinish it first.
Maybe a dumb question here — but do I strip off the veneer first – then begin your process above — or do I just sand the veneer? I’m thinking it needs to be stripped or else the parts that blistered and opened up (revealing the pressed board) would still be visible.
Is there anyway to stain this so it could match the rest of the furniture in the room? Or does it need to be painted? I’m SO confused!

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Sheryl chard on March 14, 2013 at 12:40 pm said:

i can not find an answer for my question. I bought an over the toilet space saver. It is white and looks to me like solid wood. I got it at bed bath beyond for 159.00. It is not from wal mart. How can I distress just the edges? Can I just sand the edges ?

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- Mandie on March 18, 2013 at 8:00 pm said:
  
  I’m pretty sure it’s not solid wood, if it’s from a big box store. You can use a 150 grit sandpaper to distress the edges, or you can use a chalk paint and wipe it with a damp cloth on the edges to distress once the paint it dry.
  
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angela on April 11, 2013 at 9:49 am said:

I just finished painting a desk using your tutorial. Thanks for the easy directions. My next step is to wax—after reading some of the comments I’m afraid. Will it make the piece “shiny” like a gloss finish? Also is this recommended so that it will not scratch?? Since my piece is a desk the top will get a lot of use. Thanks so much for the info.

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- Mandie on April 17, 2013 at 9:30 pm said:
  
  I would recommend Minwax wipe on polyurethane over latex paint for a high traffic surface. It will make it shiny, but I buy satin finish and it’s not too bad. If you hate the shine, you can put a thin layer of wax over the polyurethane to dull it down.
  
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